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GEOGRAPHICAL SITUATION The fueguine archipelago is separated from the continent by the Strait of Magellan, including islands and islets with a the total area is 72,000 Km2. The main island is known as Isla Grande with an area of 45,000 Km2. Its limits are established to the west by meridian 68º 36´ longitude west, the Mar Argentino to the east, while the oriental mouth of the strait of Magellan marks the limit to the north and the Beagle Channel to the south. The city of Ushuaia is the capital of the province, considered
the southernmost in the world and lies on the north coast of the
Beagle Channel and at the foot of the Martial chain, in the middle
of the Andes Mountains.
Glaciers are formed by the low temperatures and the resulting accumulation of snow in the earth's surface. Geologists call glaciations the periods of low temperature and interglacial those of high temperatures. In most cases, glaciations act on the landscape modifying its features and erasing the traces of the previous glaciation. When reference is made to this phenomenon, only glaciations that took place in our era, that is the Quaternary period, are considered. The latest scientific research indicate that almost all of Isla
Grande of Tierra del Fuego was covered by ice during the Pleistocene
period (100,000 to 20,000 years ago).
Different minerals have been exploited in our province, some until
depleted, as in the case of the gold. The mineral abundance of the
region includes: iron pyrite The peat bog is vegetal material in state of decomposition on which
research has been carried out to determine its potential applications.
So far, it has been used in soil improvement. - Excess of water, that must be constantly renewed.
The formation of soils is a constant process in which biotic and abiotic agents participate: The minerals that form the bed rock, like the relief, the climatic conditions, the time elapsed and the predominant vegetation, participate of this phenomenon. In Isla Grande, six types of soils can be differentiated, that are called edaphic domains and occupy well differentiated areas. The same can be identified through an analysis of the relief and its geomorphology. In Tierra del Fuego we find: 1) Top of mountain ranges
Most of our rivers are born in the Argentine and/or Chilean mountain
range and flow into the Atlantic Ocean, the Beagle Channel or the
Strait of Magellan. The main characteristics of the mountain rivers are: - Their sources are found in altitudes where ice and snow melt. As to the extra-Andean rivers, they are located in the center and northern areas of the island, they are small rivers with little flow due to scarce precipitation. They are of the seasonable type because they transport larger quantities of water during September and December. Río Grande is the most important river of the archipelago,
not only by its flow, but by the length that reaches 220 Km. Its
source is in Chilean territory and collects tributaries on its way
to the Atlantic Ocean. The eastern sector of the fueguine archipelago can be divided according to its climate into two well defined great environments. The area south of Lake Fagnano is affected by the oceanic cold, while in the northern area we find a cold sub-humid climate. Our island is under the influence of the oceanic mass, and due to the moderating effect of the sea, the minimum temperatures are not that low, and the maximum temperatures are less that in other locations at the same latitude in the northern hemisphere. Another influential factor is the proximity to the Antarctic continent; this generates the emission of cold winds that cause polar fronts that affect our province. The presence of winds is characteristic of the fueguine climate. In Tierra del Fuego, the predominant wind blows from the west quadrant, but in the case of Ushuaia and due to the presence of the mountain range, the wind blows from the southwest quadrant. The mountain range acts as a barrier to the cold air fronts from the Pacific. When these humid winds hit the mountains, they unload great quantities of vapor that precipitates in the form of snow or rain over the valleys and slopes, and the wind continues on with less humidity.
FLORA AND FORESTS OF TIERRA DEL FUEGO Precipitations in Tierra del Fuego diminish from south to north, fact that explains the difference between the luxuriant forest the covers the coasts of the Beagle Channel and the drier and open forest that extends to the north of Lake Fagnano. The soils are young, permeable and rich in organic matter. They come from the modification of the bed rock or the morainic sediments (left by the glaciers). In general, they are acid and shallow, what limits the development of certain vegetable species causing the roots to grow superficially and ramified. The ages and sizes of arboreal samples vary from well developed in areas close to sea level, they become twisted and very ramified at higher altitudes. These forests never surpass 700 meters over sea level; which is considered the limit of vegetation. The forest masses occupy about 30% of the area of the island and
comprise mainly lengas, guindos and ñires, species belonging
to the fagaceous family. These trees flourish profusely during a
few days in the spring, presenting masculine and feminine flowers.
The lenga is a tree with deciduous leaves with two lobes
between each nervure. Adaptable to extreme conditions, they can
be found up to the limit of vegetation. With good size, straight
trunk and grayish bark, they adopt bushy and short shapes as they
grow higher in altitude.
The ñire has deciduous leaves, resistant to adverse conditions like excess of water, wind or drought, they prefer the low lands. It presents a great quantity of branches, the bark is grayish and small in size. Other three trees that can be found in the forests, but in less
proportion in this area adopt bushy shapes. The canelo with large, shiny oval leaves and a grayish bark, even and aromatic. It has flowers of long stems, white and slightly pink that appear in bunches during the summer. Its fruits are of dark green color.
The notro is common in the south of the island, reaching a good size depending on the protection they get where they grow. The bark is even and the leaves vary in shape with an even edge. They are dark green on the upper face and clearer underneath. It is very flashy by the beautiful flowers in bunches of intense red that bloom at the beginning of the spring and end of summer. The fruits are presented in golden husks with many seeds. Lastly, the maitén, or hard firewood, is typical
of the rainy coast of the Beagle Channel. It generally measures
from 2 to 3 meters and sometimes more in protected areas. Its flowers
appear between winter and spring, they are very small and of dark
red color. Given that there are more than 500 species of plants with flowers, a variety of fern, lichen, fungus and certain species of moss, and it would be impossible to describe them all, we have selected only a few that, by their characteristics will surely call your attention.
The flower representing Tierra del Fuego is the bellflower. It grows close to the sea, in dry and sandy terrain, presenting flowers between November and January. It has a long stem with groups of 2 to 7 flowers, white or cream in color, with purple grooves and yellow center. The drosera is a miniature insectivore plant, measuring 4 to 5 mm. that grows only in very humid areas blooming in December and February. Its very small tentacles, of extreme attractive red color, segregate a sweet substance that helps trapping insects.
The calafate is a thorny bush of evergreen leaves that can reach 4 meters in height and develops in dry and sunny terrains. Its flowers that appear between October and January are very abundant, of intense yellow color and a strong but pleasant perfume. Its small fruit of violet blue color when ripe; appears in February. A legend says that when someone eats calafate comes back for more. The chaura is a bush with small leaves that end into a thorn;
it grows near the coast and in the not-so-humid clearings, producing
flowers and fruits twice a year. Its flowers are small and white.
The michay is an evergreen bush, with thorny leaves are similar to those of the mistletoe. It presents orange flowers before the end of winter while its bluish fruits mature in the fall. The parrilla is a large bush that grows in low areas, specially near the coast and in humid gullies. During the spring it presents hanging bunches of red or yellow flowers in the shape of bells, that during the summer they turn into round red or black fruits.
The frutilla del Diablo is a plant that grows in humid soil and with shade, with meaty leaves, bright and circular in shape. The fruits are similar to strawberries, but are not edible.
The mata negra es an evergreen bush, quite ramified, that grows in the plains as well as in the mountain and you cannot miss it because of its abundant flowers similar to small daisies that last well into the fall. The flor de chocolate is the most interesting high mountain flower and found generally near crystalline courses of water. During the spring is green and thorny, and in summer it is covered with very small white flowers with a string chocolate odor.
Among the hundreds of attractive flowers that cover the ground
in the most varied colors we can mention white, green and yellow
orchids, the topa-topa, violets, fueguine edelweiss, murtillas and
senecios.
Among the parasite plants and the different fungi that affect the fueguine forest we find the barba de Viejo (old man's beard) that is a lichen found in all the fueguine forests, being more common in the north, specially on the ñires. It has the shape of a group of light green hanging strings. It does not hurt the plant, it just uses it as support. The pan de indio (Indian's bread) is a parasite fungus, white or light yellow that matures from November to December. In this period it shrinks, hardens and its surface gets full of holes. Its strings adhere to the plant and segregate a substance that causes an excessive cellular multiplication which originates the characteristic shape that resembles a "knot". There is a group of fungi that weakens the plant's resistance, converting the wood into a dusty mass known as podredumbre (rot). This acquires reddish tones when the fungi affects the cellulose, or white when they attack the lignin. The peat bogs or turbales, great extensions of terrain of spongy consistence, soft texture and red and orange tones, are found all around the province, fundamentally in the great southern valleys. Roughly, the turbales consist of vegetal material accumulated in very slow decomposition: successive layers of moss (specially of the Sphagnum genre) that have the characteristic of absorbing great quantities of water. FAUNA
Although the fueguine fauna is rich and varied, the species of
native land mammals are few including red foxes, tucu-tucus, rats,
mice and bats.
LAND The same way logical variations are generated when different environments are combined as the steppe, forest and coast, there is also a great variety of mammals. In the steppe, strong screams of alarm can be heard are emitted
by the curious fueguine red fox easy to identify with long
hair and red belly, legs and head, greyish on the back and black
in the end of the tail. The zorro gris patagónico (Patagonian grey fox) differs from the red fox in its size, greyish back and tail, with tawny legs and flanks, barely reddish, and dark chin and end of tail. The thighs show also a typical black spot. This is one of the few species introduced that could adapt without inconvenience. The predominant coloration is the dark red or grey, but there are also white or black. The Canadian beaver is was another introduced species in the year 1946 with the purpose of promoting the fur industry. This is an aquatic rodent of great size, double fur, naked tail, scaled and flat in the shape of a shovel or oar. It reaches 1.20 meters. Its legs are short and rear feet present well developed membranes. To inhabit it prefers the peat bogs, then the lakes and finally the courses of water. It can remain underwater without breathing for periods of up to 15 minutes. The nails are sharp and are used for digging, carry branches, stones and mud. They build large dikes (castoreras) used for living and to store supplies causing a distress in the surrounding environment. The muskrat (rata almizclera) was also introduced and is
a semi aquatic rodent, good swimmer and diver. Its hair is short,
smooth and dense with shiny dark color, scales tail an naked. It
is a species typical of swamps with aquatic vegetation, but also
lives on the banks of lakes and rivers and less on marine coasts.
Depending on the environment, they build their burrows with the
vegetation that grows near the courses or mirror of water, or they
excavate if they do not exist. The guanaco is one of the most representatives and showy mammals of the Patagonian fauna in general and fueguine in particular. This camelid of small head, long neck and long and pointy ears, has a wool-like fur, short and of cinnamon color. The snout is black, and the throat, neck and belly are whitish. Its head is small, with large and popping eyes and long and curvy eyelashes. Its legs end in two padded fingers that do not erode the terrain. The rabbit, an introduced species similar to a rodent. The predominant coloration is dark red or grey all over its body with white spots in the throat and tail. COASTAL The Beagle Channel is populated by molluscs (snails, bivalves and limpets). Fish and crustaceans (krill, king crab and centollón) while in the open sea we find different species like whales, dolphins, orcas and porpoises. The sea wolf of one hair is a permanent resident of Tierra del Fuego and differs from other sea wolves by its turned-up, short and wide nose and by having an outer ear. The male is larger than the female and has an abundant mane. The legs are shaped like fins. The fur coloration varies according to age and sex. The baby animal are born in October and present a shiny black fur until the first month of life and then it turns into a dark color. The sea wolf of two hairs, fine wolf, is smaller in size than the common sea wolf, its skin consists of an external fur and a fine and delicate undercoat underneath. The value of the fur is intensely sought after. Presently, this activity is forbidden and balanced populations has been achieved. The southern dolphin is the most common of its kind in the Beagle Channel and has a dark grey back with its curved dorsal fin and white belly. The toninas overas (Cephalorhynchus commersonii) generally swim close to the coast with its coloration and attractive aspect. The king crab has its body covered by a hard red shell - orange with strong spikes. It has three pairs of legs and an atrophied pair that is used as pincers. Its average weight is 2 Kg. The centolla is one of the most important fishing resources of the area and tasting its meat is one of the objectives of lovers of international gastronomy. BIRDS
Out of the almost two hundred species that inhabit Tierra del Fuego, the great majority are resident or regular visitors. Depending on the environment or the time of the year, you will find different species. The Tierra del Fuego area is excellent for bird watching, for the variety of ecosystems protected. It is not uncommon to find, as you walk in the forest, a woodpecker with its particular sound when taps the trees with its beak looking for larvae or insects. The male shows its black feathers and a red head with tuft. You can also see the cauquén común and the cauquén cabeza gris, or royal, with its graceful forms, legs and long neck with a small head. On the other side, in the mountains (mainly in the center of the province) and along the coast, you can easily see the majestic Andean condor flying and gliding at great heights with the wings fully extended. From below you can see the black body with a reddish crest in the case of the male. During navigation on the Beagle Channel you will be able to spot the gaviota cocinera, with yellow legs, the grey seagull, with reddish legs and beak, the south American small seagull, small and fast with a sharp beak and a long white tail and the albatross de ceja negra, a large white bird except in the back and wings, with its typical yellow beak and a black spot around the eyes. Petrels, skuas, coastal cauquenes and pardelas are also common.
The magellanic penguin is easy to identify for its white belly with a black face and neck with a white line. The cormorant, with a shiny black bluish color, creating large colonies in the channel. They prefer the rocky islets to build their nests. The most typical are the black neck, royal and imperial. In the open sea you can spot the larger birds: the errand albatross,
white, with the edge and tip of the wings in black. Its size reaches
3.20 meters in wing span.
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